Repair goals can range from minimal to extensive. In fact, the less, the better!
The How to Do It section shows what things can be done, from minimal to restoration. Know what the goal is, then plan just the repair needed to get there. Don't overdo it.
For repair and weatherization of historic steel windows, see the article on Historic Steel Windows Repair, Restoration, and Weatherization.
Here are ten reasons to restore or repair wooden windows, from the city of Boston.
Historic windows are simple devices that are constructed of separate simple pieces.
Many repairs of historic windows need only:
Basic repairs are as simple for the Do-It-Yourself (DIY) owner and as for a contractor.
Work together with contractors! Save money!
The two courses of action, both covered in detail below:
The main thing is knowing what to do and how.
Repairs to windows usually are not complicated.. A DIY owner can save money doing some or all of the repairs. For wood windows, many repairs require only simple skills and common tools. Working with metal windows may be more complicated, but with knowledge about them, the DIY owner can learn to do many repairs.
You need to know how to do what you need. What you need depends on the goal, the objectives, and the plan.
This web site can help with setting goals and making plans. While the site is thorough on how to repair extensive window damage, it also discusses how to decide how much repair is required.
Complete Reference Guidebooks for Window Repair and Weatherization.
The guidebooks have information on all aspects of repairing, rehabilitating, restoring, and weatherizing windows. If only a specific repair is needed, then consult the relevant section.
The materials here demonstrate the steps in the rehabilitation process presented in the guidebooks. If only specific repairs are required, only the relevant sections of the presentations can be used. Also, consult the materials and demonstrations for specific repairs below
The Michigan Historic Preservation Network and the City of Kalamazoo produced these five videos to demonstrate the process of window rehabilitation. For specific repairs, rather than a full rehabilitation, view just the relevant video. However, knowing all of the steps in window rehabilitation may be helpful even for making limited repairs. More information on each individual step is in the sections below.
Most historic wood windows are either the traditional double-hung windows or casement windows. The latter are much simpler.
Each of these problems is covered in more detail in the collapsable boxes below.
Windows may not open for a variety of reasons, although the principal problem usually is paint.
Also, the first step in removing a window sash for repair is getting it loose. See videos on sash repair (below) or the steps in the rehabilitation videos (above).Casement Windows
Another common problem is that a casement sash is not sitting squarely in the window frame. The problem most likely is the hinges. Often, just tightening the hinge screws will pull the sash back into alignment with the frame. Beyond the simple fix, one (or both) of the hinges may need to be shimmed in order to align the sash. Putting a one- or two-layer thin cardboard shim behind one of the hinges will change how the sash sits in the window frame. This usually solves the problem.
If the screws no longer tighten in their holes, try longer screws. If that does not work, the screw holes need to be filled and re-drilled. Fixing loose hinges.
Plane the sash only as a last resort. Any wood that is cut away is gone forever. Only plane the edges of a window if the casement window frame was shifted out of square. But first, look into re-squaring the frame, if possible.
Other problems with casement windows, such as glazing and wood repair, are the same as for double-hung windows. Obviously there are no sash cords.
Replacing Window Sash Ropes
Sash cords are long-lived, but eventually they wear out. Replacement is straightforward, but it is not obvious how to do it! Here's how.
This is part of the routine maintenance of windows. Also, prior to painting windows, the glazing around panes of glass should be replaced where missing or deteriorated.
Baseballs or bad guys, it happens. Repair can be done with the window in place. It is not necessary to remove the window sash from the window frame. Since one step is reglazing the window pane, also see the information on glazing.
Sills & Casing
Repairing deteriorated window sills and casing. These get the most exposure to weather and need the most routine maintenance or repair. The usual reason is that paint has not been maintained and has deteriorated, exposing the wood.
The repairs needed on deteriorated or damaged window sash can range from minor to major.
Minor Repairs. The usual repair needed is to the bottom sash rail, because of exposure to weather. The usual cause is that paint has not been maintained and has deteriorated, exposing the wood. In many cases, repairing deteriorated window sash is like repairing deteriorated sills and window casing.
Major Repairs. Sometimes the damage or deterioration of a sash is so extensive, that it will require substantial rebuilding. This may just require the same techniques as for minor repairs, just more of them. However, for major deterioration, some part(s) of the sash or window frame may need to be replaced in whole or in part. A beauty of old windows is they are made of many parts that can be disassembled, fixed, and reassembled. Old pieces can be rebuilt or replacement pieces milled.
Such major repairs may have to begin with removing all of the glass panes and stripping the paint to get at the wood.
For extensive repairs and rebuilding of windows, one of the complete reference guidebooks probably is the best resource.
The following web site is thorough on how to repair extensive window damage, and on how to decide how much repair is required: How to Repair Rotten Window Frames and Sashes
If a piece is so deteriorated that a replacement needs to be made, the best route may be to engage one of the specialized window contractors to make the new piece.
Major repairs also may require replacement of some piece of hardware. Try H&R Window Repair, Hazel Park, 248-544-8282. They have an inventory of parts.
Epoxy can be used for many wood repairs, is straightforward to use, and is inexpensive compared to alternatives.
Stripping Paint & Finish
Since most old windows have been repainted many times, when repairs are underway, it may be an opportunity to remove the paint build up and clean up the windows. Getting rid of paint also may be necessary to see wood or metal damage. However, paint stripping and repainting makes window repair a much more extensive process. Also, it may not be necessary to get windows working and repaired.
While chemical paint and varnish removers and strippers are well known, they generally are not the easiest method for removing paint build up. Heat is less messy, faster, and more convenient. If the surface needs to be completely paint-free, then chemical strippers can complete the job.
Caution about Lead It is customary to warn that the paint in old houses usually has some lead-based paint layers at the bottom. Lead is poisonous and a health hazard. For that reason, it is advisable to take precautions to minimize lead fumes from heat and air-borne lead particles from scraping. Keep the area ventilated, wear dust masks, and vacuum up debris and dust. Some workers choose to wear respiratory masks.
The heat method that is most strongly advocated is the heat gun. This looks like a hair dryer, but it is much more powerful. Some paint and hardware stores sell low-powered versions, but these are slower than industrial quality heat guns. A quality heat gun will soften paint quickly, and then just scrape it off. It is dry before it hits the floor: no mess, just sweep it up. There also are heat plates that work on large flat surfaces, but for windows with muntins and milled details, the heat gun usually works better.
This section is under development. See above videos on glazing.
There are reliable contractors who specialize in the window repair and restoration. They know how to do it correctly.
Since many of the tasks are simple, general contractors, handymen, or house painters may be able to do them. However, employing non-specialized contractors for window repair can be risky.
Replacement window companies will advise you that your windows cannot be repaired and are energy inefficient. Their advice: what you need to do is to buy their new windows! Maybe not.
Advice: You need to know what work you need and how it should be done!
Here's how: study the DIY information. Even if you cannot DIY, that is the information that you need to understand what work you need contractors to do, and how they should do it.
Having a plan is very important here again. With a plan that prioritizes the work to be done, an owner can work with a contractor and get the most important work done first and within the budget. Also, if work must be spread out over time for financial reasons, the plan will help the owner and contractor set up the work in a series of affordable stages.
More About Parting Shops
The discussions of how to remove parting stops are incomplete.
If the upper sash has to be removed anyhow, then the parting stop can be removed easily. Once the upper sash will move, just lower the upper sash all the way to the window sill. Then the lip on the upper sash is at the window sill and is not block the parting stop. Start at the top, break any paint seal, and loosen the strip from its track. There may be nails. Work your way down. At the bottom, just lift the stop, intact, past the lip on the upper sash rail.
For windows with interlocking zinc weatherstripping in the sash channels, the zinc strips may set into fine grooves in the parting stop. Such parting stops are not so easy to replaceat the lumber yard. The zinc strips have to come out as well in order to remove the lower sash, and to get at the sash weight pocket openings. Getting the strips back into the fine grooves will take some practice and trial and error.
If an upper sash does not have to be removed, then the parting stop has to come out as shown in the video demonstrations. However, while the videos seem rather cavalier about breaking the parting stop, there are good reasons not to break it
If the parting stop cannot be wiggled out, then it may be necessary to cut it or break it carefully so that the lower part can be saved and fitted back into place. The ends of the lip on the lower sash rail also can be trimmed a bit, at an angle, to give more wiggle room to get the stop out. This may leave an open gap for air infiltration, however.
What is "epoxy"? Epoxy is a specialized product that is not generally found in hardware or home supply stores. Some suppliers only sell by mail order (or e-mail order.)
What is not "epoxy"? A similar product is a polyester, not an epoxy. See below. There are pros and cons to the polyester products. They are readily available at stores supplying auto body shops and some paint stores.
Where can one buy epoxy?
NOTE: The following is reproduced from the article by Tim O'Brien in Fine Homebuilding (Feb/Mar 1997, p. 65), listed in the Epoxy Repair section above.
There are too many manufacturers to include in this limited space, but here is a list of the epoxy makers I've had experience with.
5501 95th Ave., Dept. FH
Kenosba, Wis. 53144
Abatron is the oldest and largest maker of epoxies for wood repair. Available only by mail order, their products are easy to mix and tool, and they come in convenient, easy-to-use packaging. Starter kits are available in a variety of quantities. My only problems with Abatron are that their small-print instructions are not comprehensive enough for first time users and that their technical support is inconsistent.
7 Goodale Road
Newton, N.J. 07860
ConServ is a much smaller operation than Abatron, but their products come with good instructions (a 65-page application manual is available for $10). Technical support is good, and the company's owner, Brace Whipple, will talk you through the procedure. ConServ takes longer to cure but after curing stays more flexible than most epoxies. ConServ is available only by mail order but comes in less convenient packaging. The mixing procedures are also more involved.
Repair Care Systems USAMarine Epoxies
300 Oak Street #155
Pembroke, Mass. 02359
Repair Care is new to this country, but it has been in use for many years in the Netherlands. Instead of using consolidation, Repair Care requires that all damaged wood be removed before rebuilding.
West System Epoxy
Gougeon Brothers Inc.
P. O. Box 908
Bay City, Mich. 48707
West System is intended mainly for boat repair, but it's also marketed for repairing wood rot. It's available at marine supply centers nationwide and comes with an excellent technical manual. I'm told that Gougeon Brothers are renowned for their terrific technical support. West System also uses no consolidant, and the 5:1 mixing ratio can be complicated.
Smith and Co.
5100 Channel Ave.
Richmond, Calif. 94804
Smith is another marine epoxy. I bought some but haven't had a chance to try it yet. It's also marketed for wood repair.
Thompson-Minwax Co. Inc.
10 Mountainview Road, Suite A
Upper Saddle River, N. J.
The Minwax product is actually a polyester rather than an epoxy. It looks and acts much like auto-body Bondo and is available in hardware stores and home centers nationwide. However, their instructions are skimpy, and they offer no technical support.